Railcar to the home away from home
It took a long time to complete a railway covering the whole length of Ecuador. The topography of the high Andes makes it difficult to lay the tracks. While construction of the Guayaquil & Quito Railway already started in 1873, the track over the whole distance of the Southern section of 446.7 km was only finished by 1908. It starts at sea level in Duran and for the connection to Quito at 2850 m it has to cross the summit of the line of 3609 m at Urbina.
View into the valley from the base of the Imbabura volcano
However, to bring the whole country together it was necessary to connect Quito with the important towns of Ibarra and Otavalo close to the Colombian border and to the northern sea port of San Lorenzo. The 373.4 km of the Northern Division (Division Norte) of the Ferrocarriles Ecuadorianos was only completed in 1957.
When we visited Ecuador in 1996 there was still a train running from Guayaquil to Riobamba on the Southern section and on the Northern Section, frequent Autoferros between Ibarra and the market town of Otavalo and the odd train from Ibarra to San Lorenzo.
The mountains around Otavalo
After the noise and hectic of Quito and Otavalo we are longing for a couple of quiet days. One of our guidebooks praises the guesthouse Aida in the village of Esperanza outside Ibarra. Using the guesthouse as a base the guidebook also describes a couple of day hikes which we could do as an introduction to more exigent exercises later.
Farm on the slope in a stroke of sunlight
Yes, at the time it was usual to bring a printed guide-book along. We had four. The climbing and hiking guide, a German and a Dutch guidebook and a Galapagos Islands nature guide. Although much of the information is a bit outdated after 30 years I still have all of them.
Pineapple plants at one of the farms on the slope
The Dutch guidebook does not write about a train in Otavalo at all. The corresponding section of the contemporary German guidebook mentions a train from Otavalo to Ibarra four times a day at 7, 11, 15 and 18. This train ride of 1 h should set us back 0.50 $ although the Ibarra section of the same book discloses that a train connects Ibarra to Otavalo twide a day for 0.10 $. According to the author the ride is adventurous and little useful. The train would be mainly used by campesinos. That sounds like the mode of transport I would like to take. We walk to the station to check it out.
Slope of Imbabura volcano
We arrive just in time to watch the approach of railcar # 2 from Ibarra. It is market day in Oravalo and the railcar is packed. While people try to get out the waiting crowd at the platform clusters around the only door. Some want to get in, others like the many children wait for family or want to retrieve some of the luggage stored next to the driver.
The women have tied together their long, shiny blue black hair into long braids. Some wear scarfs, others the typical hats on their head. Little children are carried in bundles on the back. That way, the hands are free to carry the heavy loads they have brought.
The railcar has arrived in Otavalo
Passengers already press inside as if seats would be at short demand. However, the railcar still has to be turned around. The driver tries to chase them off while he moves ahead to back up the vehicle to a turntable which clearly has seen better times. Also the track is in a terrible shape. Sleepers supporting the rails lie loosely on the ground. Most of the tracks in the station seem to rest in a bed of mud instead of ballast.
Rush for the railcar in Otavalo
Four men on one side and a man and a boy on the other side push with all their power to get the railcar turned. As soon as the turntable is fixed in the return position more try to get into the train before it gets back to the platform surrounded by a cloud of white smoke and with the roaring noise which would suit a heavy freight train moving up a steep grade.
Railcar on its way to the turntable
Joining forces to turn the train
In 2008 the Ecuadorian president Rafael Correa named the railroad a "national cultural patrimony" and initiated its restoration. Considerable efforts were made to upgrade the track of the entire line between Guayaquil and Quite and around Ibarra. For the track between Quito and Otavalo and to San Lorenzo it already was too late. The part of the line between Ibarra and Otavalo was inaugurated in 2014. On google maps it can be seen that Otavalo got a fancy, upgraded turntable. The tracks leaving Otavalo have been renewed and the ballast looks spotless. Street view reveals an impressive, shiny white renovated station. A sign shows that the “restauracion de la estacion” has cost $ 619.414,08.
With a considerable cloud of smoke and lots of noise the train proceeds to the platform for departure
30 years of progress have also changed the modest buildings surrounded by gardens and footpaths on the slope above the station visible in the background of the old pictures. Today the buildings look much more solid, with balconies and painted in variations of colors. The development is much denser. The streets are neatly paved and clean while 30 years ago there was a lot of dust or hobbly cobblestones.
The renovated station building in Otavalo on Google street view in 2025
The next day the rush for the train is bearable. Everybody including us gets a seat and there is enough space for the backpacks. The only campesinos on the train are a couple of women selling snacks to the passengers. Although it is only a ride of an hour they make good business. The whole route to Ibarra is only 26 km long but most people don’t ride the whole route.
Selling snacks on the train
The access to the station in Ibarra is along a market. The market stalls and makeshift awnings protecting merchants and customers from sun and rain reach right to the track while the track itself, with its ballast of mud, is a convenient walkway for the customers. Humans and merchandise disappear out of the way quickly when the train arrives under a racket of engine noise and honking.
The single track of the station in Ibarra in 1995
The station in Ibarra in 2025 on Google street view
The market next to the tracks in 2025 on Google street view
The renovation of the national rail network also concerned Ibarra. The big station with just one track was modernized, the market next to the rails has disappeared. Ibarra also is the seat of the repair facility of the northern division of the Ferrocarriles Ecuadorianos. On Google the extensive premises look clean and neat. Lots of equipment is stored outside. However, when you search for a schedule in Ibarra you don’t find any departing or arriving trains.
Pedro Moncalvo stteet in 1995
The same street today in Google street view
The colonial convent and Iglesia de San Francisco at the end of the street
A glimpse into Pedro Moncayo street in Ibarra in 1995 and on Google street view in 2025 shows little difference. The colonial convent and Iglesia de San Francisco still forms the end of the street. Although the second house on the right with a little shop on the ground floor has been replaced by a modern construction of 3 floors most of the other buildings lining the street are the same. Then and now it was a tidy street. The main difference are the number of cars. There weren’t any in 1995. And no graffiti either.
The escuela Pedro Moncalvo with the crowd of shoe shine stands on the median of the street
The escuela Pedro Moncalvo todau on Google street view. The shoe shine stands have been replaced by cars
In 1995 I took a picture of the Escula Pedro Moncayo around the corner from the station since it served as the background for the many shoeshine stands on the median between the lanes of the street. They are all gone in 2025. Obviously the students do not need shoe shining any more. Few people wear shoes needing shining nowadays. The median now is a green zone with grass and scrubs in bloom, the lone tree next to the entrance of the school has disappeared. However, the school is nicely renovated. It is definitely in a better state than in 1995.
Old man in the streets of Ibarra
Esperanza in Spanish stands for Hope. In his book “the old Patagonia express”, where Paul Theroux in vain tries to ride on the Quito & Guayaquil railway, he discovers that the name of a place in South America is exactly that what is lacking. A village called Esperanza has no hope, Progreso is usually a ghost town, Paraiso a hot and humid hell.
Casa Aida, the home away from home in La Esperanza
The Casa Aida in La Esperanza is a pleasant guesthouse where we get a room with shared bathroom for 2 $. During the day there is a pleasant garden to sit, read a book and enjoy the view. In the evening all the guests sit together for dinner. There is an open fire place and a cuddly cat to play with. At night it is so quiet that every bark of one of the dogs in the village disturbs our sleep. And when one starts barking the others answer.
Casa Aida today on a photo in Google maps. It still calls itself a home away from home
The Casa Aida still exists today. There is no street view in La Esperanza but somebody posted his photo. The shape of the building is still the same but the color has changed drastically. Judg3 for ourself what you like more.
The main street of La Esperanza. Google street view did not get as far yet
At dinner it turns out that a number of people have the common idea to do some hikes from here. In particular a dutch couple makes it clear that they are in Ecuador to climb as many volcanoes as possible. Although their country of origin is not exactly known for its mountain ranges they obviously have a lot of experience in mountaineering. The famous Dutch Mountain Trail connecting seven summits around Maastricht is a challenging hike of at least 4 to 6 days. Together six of us decide to attack the 4609 m summit of the extinct volcano Imbaburu just 9 km from Esperanza the next morning after breakfast.
The track up to Imbabura
The climb up to Imbabura is one of the hikes in the area described in Bradt’s hiking guide. The round trip should take us around 8 to 9 hours. The book has a drawing with the best approach to the summit. The locals used to go up the mountain to collect ice and carry it down to Ibarra. The glacier at the top is long gone but when people had been able to go up and down carrying heavy loads we should be able to go up there too.
Farms with a view at the base of Imbabura
We pass several farms with a desolation as magnificent as their views of the surrounding scenery. A couple of chicken and black and white cattle roam the small paddocks. The book describes a maze of dirt tracks leading to the trail head at the foot of the summit. It recommends to ask one of the locals about the correct route. The problem is, there are only few locals. Those we see seem to quickly disappear like shy animals upon our noisy approach.
The slope of Imbabura
The route is a washed out, exposed track across the páramo, the highland prairie of the Andes. The path is slimy and slippery. Even after a week of acclimatization the height still causes serious lack of breath. Clouds have moved in and the summit above us has disappeared in the mist.
The map of the ascent of Imbabura in the Bradt hiking guide of 1994
The guidebook recommends to use a foot path following the ridge around the crater. The Dutch mountaineers insist on ascending along a straight line through the high grass inside the crater. With their experience they would be able to find a path to the top without needing to buy and consult a book. However, due to the mist it is not clear where the summit actually is.
Discussion of the further route up the slope
And up they go ... the others
Eventually the two of us give up and turn around while the others continue up the steep slope. Even if we would have reached the summit we wouldn’t have been able to see anything in this mist. I am not so eager to just climb to a top o be able to tell that I have made it. Without a view I think reaching a summit is useless.
On our way up to Cubilche the next day we can appreciate our attempt of the day before. The track we tried was to the left of the rocky outcrop of the eroded crater
Later in the evening when the others return it turns out that even they decided to turn around. They were not able to find a way up through the interior of the eroded crater. The next day, while they take a rest, we walk up to the neighboring extinct volcano of Cubilche with a summit at only 3826 m.
View back into the valley
Both Cubilche and Imbabura are dormant or extinct. The last eruption was in the Pleistozene, between 26.000 and 44.000 years ago. However, the summits, less than 200 m different in height, look completely different.
Another farm with a view
A good track climbs up towards the slope of Loma Cubilche. Two friendly dogs follow us along the way, probably in the hope of a share of our modest lunch. They give up when the path gets steeper.
View up to the eroded crater of Imbabura before the clouds move in and make it unvisible
This morning is splendid and we have a great view of the eroded crater of Imbabura. We can see the slope where we tried to go up yesterday. Its top was only the base of a jagged jumble of rocks without a visible trail to the summit. We are glad we did not continue.
The crater lake at the top of Cubilche
In contrast the summit of Cubilche is an innocent green little crater with a marshy, silted up greenish-blue pond. Like the day before the clouds start moving in around the summit but there is still sun in the valley and on the facing slopes. The little checkered pattern of the fields on the slopes reflects the light. In contrast to Imbabura, the ascent of Cubilche, which is only slightly lower, is a pleasure without challenges or dangers.
The locations of La Esperanza, Cubilche and Imbabura on the topographic map
After we come back, the Dutch mountaineers are surprised that we were able to make it to the summit. For them, Cubilche is no challenge, but a waste of time. Tomorrow they will continue to conquer the most famous of Ecuadorian volcanoes, Chimborazo and Cotopaxi.
View of the glacier covered top of Cotopaxi from La Esperanza
We also need to leave the pleasant home of Aida. Our guidebooks revel about the train ride from Ibarra 2200 m down down to the coastal town of San Lorenzo. The train also gives access to remote coastal villages and a culture and area completely different from the highlands.
At the top of Cubilche
However, when we come back to Ibarra it turns out that the train to San Lorenzo does not run anymore. An article in the newspaper gives as reason the bad condition of the track. The article complains about the disadvantages for the local farmers. Many of the villages, in particular west of Alto Tambo, are far from the main road and only reachable by train. For them it now will be difficult to transport their rich production either to the coast or to the customers in the central highland valley. We have to change our plans.
Busses waiting for departure in Otavalo
Although the reconstruction of the railway after 2014 was completed train traffic in Ecuador largely depended on well-paying tourists. In 2020 the pandemic led to a complete shut-down of any train traffic. The consequence was bankruptcy of the Ferrocarriles Ecuadoianos, FFEE.
The view of the tracks in Ibarra today on Google street view
The big railway repair facility in Ibarra according to Google street view is still there although there are very few trains
Today, the “man in Seat61” has no information about regular trains in Ecuador. A bit of searching discovers that on Wednesday to Sunday there is a tourist train from Ibarra to San Antonio on the former line to Otavalo. Three times a day at 8, 11 and 14 a train leaves for his adventurous 13 km journey. The beautifully renovated station of Otavalo with its brand-new turntable does not see any train-rides any more. Gone are the Indians and farmers on the railbus. They are replaced by performances for tourists.
Imbabura from the western Otavalo side
Sources:
R. Rachowiecki, B. Wagenhauser, Climbing and hiking in Ecuador, Bradt 1994
W. Falkenberg, Reise know how, Ecuador, 1995
Paul Theroux, the old Patagonia express.
Google street view
Volcan Imbabura at dusk
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